Garlic is planted in fall, harvested in summer, and requires almost no attention in between. It's one of the few crops where the window for mistakes is genuinely narrow — but as long as you get the planting and curing right, it's nearly foolproof.
Hardneck vs. Softneck
There are two main types and the choice matters for New England growers.
Hardneck varieties produce a central stalk (the scape) and have a single ring of large cloves around it. They're more cold-hardy, more complex in flavor, and better suited to northern climates. They don't store as long — typically 4 to 6 months — but for a home garden that's rarely a limitation. Rocambole, Porcelain, and Purple Stripe are the main hardneck groups, each with distinct flavor profiles.
Softneck varieties are what you find in the supermarket. They store longer (up to a year), don't produce scapes, and have more cloves per bulb — but they're less cold-hardy and less flavorful. In zone 6 and warmer they perform well. In zone 5 and colder, hardneck varieties are more reliable.
Planting Time
Plant garlic in fall, 4 to 6 weeks before the ground freezes — typically October in most of New England, as late as early November in warmer zones. You want the cloves to establish roots before winter but not produce significant top growth. A clove with a good root system going into winter will significantly outperform one planted too late.
In New England this typically means planting from Columbus Day through Halloween depending on your location and elevation.
Soil and Planting
Garlic wants loose, well-drained soil with good fertility. It does not tolerate waterlogged conditions — the bulbs will rot. If your soil is heavy clay, amend with compost or plant in a raised bed.
Break the bulb into individual cloves just before planting — not weeks in advance. Plant each clove 2 inches deep with the pointed end up, 6 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart. Mulch heavily after planting with straw or chopped leaves — 4 to 6 inches. The mulch insulates the soil, suppresses weeds, and retains moisture through spring.
Scapes
Hardneck garlic sends up a curling central stalk — the scape — in late June. Cut it off when it makes one complete curl. Removing the scape redirects the plant's energy into bulb development and can increase bulb size by 20 to 30 percent. Don't discard scapes — they taste like mild garlic and are excellent stir-fried, in pesto, or grilled whole.
Harvest and Curing
Harvest when the lower half of the leaves have turned brown and dried but the upper half are still green — typically mid-July in most of New England. If you wait until all leaves are brown the wrappers will have deteriorated and the bulbs won't store well. If you harvest too early the cloves will be underdeveloped.
Dig carefully — a garden fork works better than a shovel for avoiding damage. Brush off excess soil but don't wash the bulbs. Cure in a single layer in a warm, dry, well-ventilated location out of direct sun for 3 to 4 weeks. The outer wrappers will dry and tighten. Trim the roots and stalks after curing and store in mesh bags or braided in a cool, dry location.
Save your largest, healthiest bulbs for replanting in fall. After a few generations your garlic will be adapted to your specific soil and conditions.
Whatever you're growing this season — grow it well.